top of page


I started the journey on at 11 am. My sister took me to the German side of the mountains to the town of Lam and I begun my journey from there onto the mountain Osser – Ostry. First I went towards German chapel Mariahilf. The ascent was quite hard and very steep, this was the first time I questioned myself why on earth I am my putting myself through this...I must be mad...I thought to myself, huffing and puffing up the steep mountain with my 20kg bag on my back. When I got to the chapel I begun to feel a bit better. The path on the way from there was marked by numbered crosses with little sculptures of Saints. I thought that was quite poignant start to my pilgrimage and I didn’t feel so alone with it anymore. When I passed the chapel I discovered a pile of and thought maybe I could get myself a walking stick from here. So I picked one remarkably it was straight and I loved it. It made me feel really cheerful as I felt as if I had a companion. I followed on the path towards the mount Osser/Ostry(1280 meters above the sea level). The mountain is also known as the Breast of Holy Mother. It is quite a special mountain it has got two tops. One on the German side with a cross on the top and one of the Czech side which is wilder and more rugged. I liked both very much. It felt quite strange and alien walking through the German forest but as soon as I crossed the border I felt at home. Somehow the Czech side of the mountains feels wilder and not so tamed and controlled and I can relate to it much better. It was quite a brooding day and grey day with mist swirling around the top of the mountain. It was so silent I could almost ‘hear it’. Only a lonely birdsong broke occasional the heavy and dense atmosphere in the air. It was magical but oppressive a little bit eerie at the same time.


ostry vrchol enh sunset.jpg


From Ostry I descended into the beautiful panorama of the Czech lands. When I got to Bila Strz which is the only proper waterfall in Sumava Mountains, the light mist have turned into heavy white fog. Suddenly I felt like crying and felt very lonely. I haven’t seen or spoken t anyone for over 4 hours. Even the birds went quiet. I felt a bit overwhelmed by it by the beauty, little bit of fear of the unknown and the challenging journey ahead. I wanted to reach Cerne Jezero(Black Lake) and I felt so frightened that I nearly given up for the day as it was getting quite late and I was tired , hungry and having walked 10 kilometres to walk another 8.5km seemed beyond my reach. So I sat down had some food which made me feel better and collected my thoughts. After a little while of resting I decided to walk on and it seemed less overwhelming. I reached the lake at 6pm. It begun to rain and it was rather beautiful with the raindrops falling into the dark waters of the lake. I was there on my own watching the raindrops, thinking about all myths and stories connected with the lake and felt a profound respect for it. Later on I set off on my way to Spicak Mountain (1221 meters above the sea level) and wondering where am I going to sleep tonight. By this point it was raining really heavily. I was very tired yet I was quite indifferent to and fearless. Walking in the rain was very rhythmical, almost methodical and soothing. I enjoyed and despite the rain I felt very good in myself. When I reached Spicak village the rain turned torrential and I decided to stay I a local hotel after all. I was so tired and although I was very disappointed not to be able to sleep outdoors I thought to myself that if I am to complete the pilgrimage and not fall ill I have to be sensible.

I fell asleep as soon as I my head hit the pillow.



silence – beauty – fear – rhythm – mystery – freedom – water – fog – cloud movements – setting rules

bottom of page